Hannah Louise Clayton

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I recently embarked on a five-month adventure in Argentina, from February to July 2023, as part of Clemson University's exchange program with Blas Pascal University in the vibrant city of Córdoba. Looking back on this journey, I miss the city every day. Those five months brought about significant academic, social, and cultural growth, leaving me with a profound sense of belonging I hadn't experienced before.

 

Perhaps I felt so settled in Córdoba due to the city's unique blend of European influence, which permeates the entire country of Argentina. I lived in the UK for 8 of my formative years. Hence, the combination of European and Latin influence in Argentina gave me the sense of experiencing something new and familiar at the same time, a harmonious duality. The Italian influence, in particular, was unmistakable – from the pizza and pasty-laden cuisine to the melodious last names and expressive hand gestures. In Córdoba, I observed drivers and pedestrians engaging in full-fledged conversations without uttering a word, relying solely on gestures. What resonated most with me, however, was the pace of life. In the United States, we often lead tightly scheduled, fast-paced lives constrained by rigidity. Drive-thrus, Amazon deliveries, and rampant consumerism mark our daily existence.

In contrast, life in Córdoba revealed itself as refreshingly uncomplicated. There was spontaneity, a willingness to seize and fully enjoy the moment, and a resourceful attitude. Wasting food was considered taboo, and people lived without expecting that tomorrow's plans were set in stone--if they even made plans. Instead, I'd often receive a last-minute message inviting me to join a friend for a mate (tea) in the park, and, as per my commitment to embrace every opportunity, I'd enthusiastically accept.

 

This approach led me to partake in some truly memorable adventures. I embarked on a grueling three-day hike in Arequipa, Peru, despite having minimal hiking experience and physical fitness. I visited the countryside of the Cordoba province, where vineyard owners invited us to their houses and

graciously shared Argentinean hospitality, teaching us dance moves and introducing us to their Argentinean musicians. I even embarked on a spontaneous weekend trip to Mendoza without the company of any students from my program. While I occasionally felt nervous or worried about stranger danger, the kindness and warmth of the people I met dispelled those fears. It was easy to make friends with exchange students from many of the other universities in Córdoba, so I never felt too alone, even though sometimes I was initially shy or nervous. By the end of the exchange, I had made friends from France, Switzerland, Ecuador, Spain, Mexico, Italy, and Scotland--more places than I could count! 

 

Comparing the cultural attitudes towards trust and safety, I realized a significant difference between the United States and the rest of the world. The ever-present background fear of gun violence in the US is something we've become desensitized to, but it is always there. I distinctly remember being on a rooftop in downtown Córdoba when the engine of a passing motorcycle made a popping sound. Instantly, all the Americans instinctively ducked, while the Argentinean, French, Mexican, and Italian individuals remained unfazed. This moment was a stark reminder of the cultural disparity in our perceptions of safety. In the US, we live in greater fear of gun violence, often subconsciously. Living in a place where I didn't have to worry about it for that period was a welcome relief.

 

However, safety concerns persisted in Argentina due to the deepening economic crisis. Wealthier neighborhoods featured for-hire security stations, a sight I had never encountered before. Both of my host families had their security strategies. My first home had an extensive security system with multiple locks and a motion-sensing alarm, requiring quick maneuvering to navigate. On the other hand, my second host mother preferred not to lock doors but had a large, affectionate Argentinean Dogo named Mecha, a breed native to Córdoba, as her protector. What united both families was their strong sense of community and cooperation with neighbors to maintain safety. While not unheard of in the US, this collective approach to safety reflected Argentina's collectivist-leaning culture, marked by collaboration and sharing.

 

Even the ritual of mate, Argentina's beloved tea, served in a unique receptacle with a metal straw, epitomized this sense of togetherness. Despite the pandemic's temporary shift toward personal servings, the traditional practice of passing the cup around in a circle remained charming and friendly. In a world that sometimes feels increasingly isolated, it was a reminder of the warmth of human connection.

 

As for my academic growth, I had plenty of opportunities to improve my Spanish, which I major in at Clemson. But there was one unexpected place where I feel I learned and practiced the most Argentinean Spanish: Uber! With Blas Pascal and our host families being located about a 30-minute drive from downtown Córdoba capital, the buses being crowded and braking so hard I would have to brace hard not to fall over, along with the safety concerns of getting a bus late at night, I often opted for Ubers to and from downtown, which were surprisingly affordable.

 

The Uber drivers in Córdoba were distinctive from other countries in that they were remarkably friendly, talkative, and usually from diverse neighborhoods. This meant I got to talk to people who had unusual, sometimes harder-to-understand accents and would use colloquial language. Many of my drivers spoke exceptionally fast and would drop a lot of syllables in their pronunciation while speaking. It improved my Spanish a LOT having these conversations because they were often repetitive subject-wise—asking similar questions about my experience in Cordoba and how it compares to where I am from. It allowed me to practice and improve my listening skills a massive amount because initially, I struggled to understand many of my drivers and speak in a way they could easily understand me. By the end of those five months, I would get into an Uber, and the conversation would flow easily and naturally, and I didn't even have to think or concentrate.

 

I learned a lot about my Uber drivers' lives—many were not as wealthy or sheltered as those I was surrounded by at Blas Pascal, located in a more affluent part of town. They dreamed of or intended to leave Argentina, hoping they could find work in Spain, Italy, or the US and send money back to their families. Different currencies, like US dollars, were far more stable, and they explained that they could give their families more opportunities by doing this. I did not have one unkind Uber driver; they were always very sincere and honest. It made living in Argentina feel more realistic and authentic because every driver was grappling with the economic crisis and its impact on their future. It fills me with grief, having met the humorous, wonderful people of Cordoba, knowing that the future of their country is uncertain. But I have no regrets that I got to meet these people. They were special, funny, and informal in ways that I found immensely refreshing.​

 

I will, however, have to be aware of not using such informal Spanish in all Latin American countries. Cordobeses are remarkably, adorably colloquial with one another. In fact, I theorize that they show connection and amicability through poking fun at each other, but I know not all Latin countries speak with such an informal register. For example, I will have to practice using "usted" more instead of "tú" or the Italianized Argentinean version, "vos."

 

My study abroad journey in Córdoba has left an indelible mark on me, both academically and in terms of cultural understanding and personal growth. I overcame significant social anxiety, allowing me to challenge my preconceptions, broaden my horizons, and improve my intercultural awareness and Spanish language skills. My semester there has provided me with a new perspective on life. I learned to embrace the chaos, live in the moment, and cherish the connections forged with people from diverse backgrounds. Córdoba transformed from a mere destination into a place I could call home. This deep connection led me to extend my flight home, returning on July 24th instead of the 1st, affording me precious time to say goodbye to my friends and savor my last moments in one of the most enriching seasons of my life thus far. I genuinely felt more at home in Argentina than in the US or the UK, which is why my time abroad will forever hold a special place in my heart, inspiring me to pursue future travel in more Spanish-speaking countries.

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(Written in September of 2023)

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